Floor Tile Installation

The Floor Has to Be Right Before the Tile Goes Down

Floor tile fails when the substrate moves. Wood subfloors flex; concrete slabs crack. The job of the installer is to create a stable, flat surface that the tile can bond to permanently. We do this with a combination of subfloor assessment, self-leveling compound where needed, and cement board or uncoupling membrane depending on the floor type and the tile being used.

Uncoupling membranes — like Schluter DITRA — are particularly useful on wood subfloors because they allow the wood to expand and contract seasonally without transmitting that movement to the tile above. In older homes in Lafayette Square and Mid-City, where subfloors have decades of movement history, this makes a real difference in long-term performance.

Large-Format Tile Considerations

Tiles 24 inches and larger require a flatter substrate than smaller tiles. The industry standard for large-format tile is a maximum variation of 1/8 inch over a 10-foot span (compared to 3/16 inch for standard tile). We check flatness before setting and address high spots and low spots before the first tile goes down. Large tiles also require a larger trowel notch and back-buttering to achieve the required coverage — at least 95% in wet areas, 80% elsewhere.

Floor Tile Process

1. Subfloor assessment: Check for flex, moisture, and flatness. Identify and address problem areas.
2. Substrate prep: Install cement board or uncoupling membrane. Apply self-leveling compound if needed.
3. Layout: Find room center, establish working lines, dry-lay to confirm pattern and minimize small cuts at visible edges.
4. Setting: Mix and apply thinset, set tile with proper coverage, maintain consistent joint spacing with tile spacers or wedge leveling systems.
5. Grouting: After 24-hour cure, apply grout, tool joints, and clean haze from tile surface.
6. Transitions: Install threshold trim at doorways and transitions to other flooring types.